presqu'île (12. 560)

Returning to the long, narrow peninsula of Gârves opposite Port-Louis via the route sandwiched between two beach fronts, we took in some more views of the harbour and marina of this an storied fishing village and ancient former quarry.

Though stable since the Middle Ages, this tombolo (see previously, the first documented mention cutes three isolated islands) is the outermost reach of the drifting dune massiv and is threatened with erosion, especially in the built up areas.

The fortifications at Pohr-Puns was build at the end of the seventeenth century as advance defence for Port-Louis and Lorient and the batteries in the sparsely populated areas along the dunes were an experimental training grounds in the 1800s to test the range and effectiveness of artillery on battleships, known as the Gârves Commission, ballistic research continues here to this day under the auspices of a nearby naval base.

synchronoptica

one year ago: a visit to the Rocco di Caldè (with synchronopticæ) 

twelve years ago: plugging leaks 

thirteen years ago: redefining the second 

fourteen years ago: the introduction of the bar code 

fifteen years ago: busting a Russian spy ring 

tumuli (12. 559)

Although closed to visitors due to protect the site still being researched by archaeologists, wandering through the archway of thick ferns and undergrowth approaching the Tumulus of Tumiac, the monumental burial mound (Hügelgrab) in the town of Arzon was very impressive to ponder.

The fifteen metre high and two hundred metre circumference man made hill with an interior vault filled with precious grave goods constructed around 4000 BC provides a commanding perspective of the area and out to sea. According to local lore, hence the nickname Caesar’s Butte, it was from here that the Roman general witnessed the naval victory of his fleet against the Veneti in 56 BC, four millennia later, who were more skilled pilots and whose sturdy ships were impervious to ramming, and thus sealed the conquest of Gaul—though assimilation was more of a negotiated peace particularly with this sophisticated tribe who allowed the Romans entry to their trading partners on the British Isles. The tomb itself was not excavated and studied until 1830.

We also visited the nearby le Petit Mont also at the head of the Rhuys peninsula by the Port of Crouesty, the older and slightly smaller megalithic cairn was converted to a temple of Venus during Gallo Roman occupation and originally contained three tombs, though one was destroyed during WWII when the mound was converted into a bunker by the Nazis, though the exterior architecture mostly remains true to the original.

logis seigneurial (12.558)

Outside of Vannes (Gwened, the de facto capital of the region) near the village of Sarzeau (Sarzhav), we visited Château de Suscinio, built in the thirteenth century as residence and retreat for the dukes of Brittany and fortified over the next two years until Breton was fully aligned with France as a summer home between the seaside and a well-stocked forest for hunting, this uniquely preserved castle retains the representational elements of the high Middle Ages of the casement, moat and towered gatehouse after the introduction of gunpowder and the canon made such structures obsolete and most were scaled back as estates if not falling into complete disrepair.

Part of the preservation was owing to its role in the War of the Roses, housing a contingent of exiled Lancastrian including Jasper Tudor and his nephew, future King Henry VII, safeguarding the potential heirs from kidnapping and execution by Plantagenet usurpers. Having lent support to the Lancastrian rebellion—in exchange for guarantees of independence from France, the duchy eventually transferred their wards, rebuffing the counter-offer and double-cross of Yorkist king Richard III for the surrender of the Tudors after eleven years in absentia.

Following the death of duke Francis II and the end of the Tudor line, the duchy was ruled by Anne of Brittany, twice Queen of France, before finally being annexed upon her dearh without issue in 1514. Quarried for stone after it was abandoned by the ducal dynasty, Jérôme du Camboult, the cousin of Cardinal Richelieu aspired to convert the Reviere into a tading company but attempts failed and presently the surrounding marshes are used as evaporation pools for salt extraction.

 synchronoptica

one year ago: a visit to the Borromean islands (with synchronopticæ) 

twelve years ago: nuclear waste in our backyard plus Anglicisms on the train

thirteen years ago: throwing good money after bad 

fourteen years ago: defining the meme plus the cost of fuel shipments in America’s forever wars

fifteen years ago: preoccupation with the undead 

le village aux cinq portes (12. 557)

Originally established as an annex for Port Louis (see below), the maritime hub Le Orient was significantly expanded during the age of transatlantic trade (including the triangular commerce in enslaved individuals) by the French East India Company, hence the name of the largest city in the region, shortened to Lorient—see previously—and though the chartered concern was also bankrupt with the South Sea Bubble but maintained its importance as an export centre. Feeling La Havre was too exposed, the Nazi Kriegsmarine established their largest U-Boot harbour here in 1940 and 1941, and despite heavy bombardment from Allied forces, they were unable to destroy the submarine pins and instead leveled the city to deny Germans further amenities.

Still an active port, ships continued to be built here for both military and civilian use.

Just down shore, we also visited the citadel (previously) of Port Louis—also first commissioned as a relief station for St Malo and entrepôt for the Compagnie française des Indes. With the Revolution, the royal wharf and arsenal was ceded to the state with the king covering its debts.

Many of the privateers fighting in the American revolutionary war set sail from here, and the citadel, presently a museum, was used as a prison for Emperor Napoleon III and members of the French resistance during WWII. It is separated by a long and narrow inlet to the sea, the lagoon referred to le petit mer de Gâvres after the peninsula and fishing village opposite, known for its technique of Pêche à pied—that is collecting seafood by hand at low tide.

synchronoptica

one year ago: Ponti dei Salti (with synchronopticæ)  

thirteen years ago: drone warfare (Dronen Bedrohung) plus incomplete graffiti

fourteen years ago: copper thievery 

fifteen years ago: shades of green and photosynthesis 

le chemin du cadoudal (12. 556)

We went to the inland sea by the village of Locoal-Mendon to take a walk around a wooded spit of land reaching out into the estuary and landscape of oyster-culture.

The once secret path to the settlement of La Foret for smuggling out members of the clergy aligned with Royalists and counter-revolutionaries during the Terror that followed the founding of the First Republic as they had refuge until they could escape by boat was established by Georges Cadoudal (Jorj Kadoudal) to compliment their hidden base of operations.

Not a nom de guerre but rather a case of nominative determinism, the surname means in Breton “warrior returned from the fight” and was honoured as a mashal of France during the Bourbon restoration, the headquarters preserved in its grove and business of farming off shore continuing. The trail was lined with a collection of remarkable trees, gnarly and stunted from the salty winds.

wasserstoff (12. 555)

Having always been fascinated by the depth and breadth of the German language and the seeming disconnect in scientific terminology, as with the above hydrogen (waterstuf in Dutch) or Sauerstoff (zuurstuf) for oxygen. While there is good reason for maintaining plain language in scientific parlance and keeping it accessible for all, there’s also compelling arguments for fossilising something eternal and universal in dead languages, augmented by Latin and Greek roots, hedging the unchanging against the malleability and evolution of a living tongue. We enjoyed this illustration of the matter from science fiction writer of Danish extraction Poul Anderson in his 1989 essay Uncleftish Beholding attempting to relay atomic (and quantum) theory using only Germanic words and berefting English of its other influences. The text begins: “For most of its being, mankind did not know what things are made of, but could only guess. With the growth of worldken, we began to learn, and today we have a beholding of stuff and work that watching bears out, both in the workstead and in daily life”—going to define uncleft (atomic elements) with firststuffs (those lighter ones created in the cauldrons of stars that fuel stellar fusion) and the heavier ones like ymirstuff (uranium) synthesised from supernova, as well as bulkbits (molecules) and bindings , bindings (compounds) that arise through chemical reactions. There’s an outline of the periodic table drawn the Norse rather than the Greco-Roman pantheon as well as Old English derived terms for isotopes (samesteads) and other nuclear states and particulars. The conlang element of the exercise with similar ones constructed since—the glosses referred to as “Ander-Saxon”—and is a special class of constrained writing, much in the spirit of recognising pantheons and nomenclature outside mainstream Western traditions. Click through at the link for Futility Closet above for much more.

synchronoptica

one year ago: visiting Carmine and Cannobio (with synchronopticæ)

twelve years ago: the EU and Club Med 

fourteen years ago: the problems with packaging 

fifteen years ago: bees and bailouts 

coques et moules (12. 554)

Today was a beach day and we wandered over the dunes to the water’s edge along the plage near where the cargo ship the TK Bremmen washed ashore in 2011, long since cleared away and salvaged due to the pollution risk from oil in the hold.

Taking a nice stroll in the sand and surf, there was the remains of a World War II concrete pillbox bunker, a relic of Nazi Germany’s Atlantic Wall and impervious to destruction after eighty years. Later on we returned to the Island of Saint Cado and had mussels served the traditional way with frities and fortified cidre in tea cups.

We walked around the whole of the island. A service was being held in the chapel but we saw the devotional fountain fed by the sea, built in the 1700s with a Celtic cross in deference to Cardoc, patron of Gaul and Armorica (along with Saint Anne, the mother of Mary), restored in the twenty first century for the procession of Saint Cado’s Pardon (see previously), a pentential pilgrimage—to be granted indulgence—coinciding with a feast day and unique to Breton.

synchronoptica

one year ago: a visit to a historic hermitage (with synchronopticæ) 

twelve years ago: Wiesbaden’s Fort Biehler plus an FAQ on FAQs 

thirteen years ago: wayside shrines, the Feldenkrais method plus the return of the hibachi

quai de benjamin franklin (12. 553)

Returning to Belz, we stopped at the old eponymous fishing town straddling both banks of the river Auray—conversely the namesake likely being from Aula Régina applied to an older settlement from the Latin for royal court after the important shipping channel fell under the seigneurship of English king Henry II (confirmed by the Breton designation of An Alre—or simply Loc’h where the river can be raised to make it navigable to the sea.

The trade centre established in the older quarter is centred on the port of Saint-Goustan whose actuarial records extend back to the fourteenth century and document commerce in foodstuffs, cloth and Biscay steel. Expanded in the mid-1600s due to a more sophisticated commerce network, the new wharf was named later in honour of diplomat Benjamin Franklin who landed here on 3. December 1776to entreat France for support in their war of independence. Today the habour has been rehabilitated as a marina and a quasi estuary for water fowl and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region.