le chemin du cadoudal (12. 556)

We went to the inland sea by the village of Locoal-Mendon to take a walk around a wooded spit of land reaching out into the estuary and landscape of oyster-culture.

The once secret path to the settlement of La Foret for smuggling out members of the clergy aligned with Royalists and counter-revolutionaries during the Terror that followed the founding of the First Republic as they had refuge until they could escape by boat was established by Georges Cadoudal (Jorj Kadoudal) to compliment their hidden base of operations.

Not a nom de guerre but rather a case of nominative determinism, the surname means in Breton “warrior returned from the fight” and was honoured as a mashal of France during the Bourbon restoration, the headquarters preserved in its grove and business of farming off shore continuing. The trail was lined with a collection of remarkable trees, gnarly and stunted from the salty winds.

wasserstoff (12. 555)

Having always been fascinated by the depth and breadth of the German language and the seeming disconnect in scientific terminology, as with the above hydrogen (waterstuf in Dutch) or Sauerstoff (zuurstuf) for oxygen. While there is good reason for maintaining plain language in scientific parlance and keeping it accessible for all, there’s also compelling arguments for fossilising something eternal and universal in dead languages, augmented by Latin and Greek roots, hedging the unchanging against the malleability and evolution of a living tongue. We enjoyed this illustration of the matter from science fiction writer of Danish extraction Poul Anderson in his 1989 essay Uncleftish Beholding attempting to relay atomic (and quantum) theory using only Germanic words and berefting English of its other influences. The text begins: “For most of its being, mankind did not know what things are made of, but could only guess. With the growth of worldken, we began to learn, and today we have a beholding of stuff and work that watching bears out, both in the workstead and in daily life”—going to define uncleft (atomic elements) with firststuffs (those lighter ones created in the cauldrons of stars that fuel stellar fusion) and the heavier ones like ymirstuff (uranium) synthesised from supernova, as well as bulkbits (molecules) and bindings , bindings (compounds) that arise through chemical reactions. There’s an outline of the periodic table drawn the Norse rather than the Greco-Roman pantheon as well as Old English derived terms for isotopes (samesteads) and other nuclear states and particulars. The conlang element of the exercise with similar ones constructed since—the glosses referred to as “Ander-Saxon”—and is a special class of constrained writing, much in the spirit of recognising pantheons and nomenclature outside mainstream Western traditions. Click through at the link for Futility Closet above for much more.

synchronoptica

one year ago: visiting Carmine and Cannobio (with synchronopticæ)

twelve years ago: the EU and Club Med 

fourteen years ago: the problems with packaging 

fifteen years ago: bees and bailouts 

coques et moules (12. 554)

Today was a beach day and we wandered over the dunes to the water’s edge along the plage near where the cargo ship the TK Bremmen washed ashore in 2011, long since cleared away and salvaged due to the pollution risk from oil in the hold.

Taking a nice stroll in the sand and surf, there was the remains of a World War II concrete pillbox bunker, a relic of Nazi Germany’s Atlantic Wall and impervious to destruction after eighty years. Later on we returned to the Island of Saint Cado and had mussels served the traditional way with frities and fortified cidre in tea cups.

We walked around the whole of the island. A service was being held in the chapel but we saw the devotional fountain fed by the sea, built in the 1700s with a Celtic cross in deference to Cardoc, patron of Gaul and Armorica (along with Saint Anne, the mother of Mary), restored in the twenty first century for the procession of Saint Cado’s Pardon (see previously), a pentential pilgrimage—to be granted indulgence—coinciding with a feast day and unique to Breton.

synchronoptica

one year ago: a visit to a historic hermitage (with synchronopticæ) 

twelve years ago: Wiesbaden’s Fort Biehler plus an FAQ on FAQs 

thirteen years ago: wayside shrines, the Feldenkrais method plus the return of the hibachi

quai de benjamin franklin (12. 553)

Returning to Belz, we stopped at the old eponymous fishing town straddling both banks of the river Auray—conversely the namesake likely being from Aula Régina applied to an older settlement from the Latin for royal court after the important shipping channel fell under the seigneurship of English king Henry II (confirmed by the Breton designation of An Alre—or simply Loc’h where the river can be raised to make it navigable to the sea.

The trade centre established in the older quarter is centred on the port of Saint-Goustan whose actuarial records extend back to the fourteenth century and document commerce in foodstuffs, cloth and Biscay steel. Expanded in the mid-1600s due to a more sophisticated commerce network, the new wharf was named later in honour of diplomat Benjamin Franklin who landed here on 3. December 1776to entreat France for support in their war of independence. Today the habour has been rehabilitated as a marina and a quasi estuary for water fowl and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region.

the carnac stones (12. 552)

Just a short drive away, we visited—I suspect revisited at least in part we'll have to check an earlier version of the blog, the monumental arrangement of prehistoric dolmen, menhir and burial chambers surrounding the village of Carnac (Karnag).

Three main groups of monoliths in the adjoining fields and forest at Menéc, Kermario (House of the Dead) and Kerlescan are aligned to mark the spring and winter solstices. Although escapingly ancient, dating to 4 500 BC, a pious legend surrounded them from the late Middle Ages (imagination insufficient for such time scales--see previously) that the discipline of the formation was owing to an enchantment cast by Pope Cornelius, an early pontiff serving just after the Decian persecutions, on a legion of pagan soldiers in pursuit—or alternatively by the wizard Merlin’s spell, Bretagne having its own Arthurian matter.

A bit removed from the main site, we discovered another ensemble of transept graves at Mané Kerioned including an underground chamber with an inscription.

synchronoptica

one year ago: exploring Maccagno (with synchronopticæ) 

ten years ago: assorted links to revisit, fidelity plus even more links to enjoy

eleven years ago: the importance of boredom, distinctions among German terms for immigration plus alternative currencies

twelve years ago: capitalism and moral bankruptcy 

fourteen years ago: advances in solar energy generation 

côte sauvage (12. 551)

Continuing south to the peninsula of Quiberon (Kiberen) just beyond the narrow isthmus (technically a spit of land called a tombolo as the island is joined to the mainland by a built up sandbar and not a strait proper, the link only dating to the eleventh century when deforestation unleashed the deposits) at Fort Penthièvre, a French military training base that was captured by Nazi German as an extreme reach of the Atlantic Wall, taking a trail that led through a nature reserve (the vegetation ruined by over tourism with arrival of the train to the resort town on the southern most tip)along a windswept rocky coast direct on the ocean, beach attractions rare due to its rough waves and untamed landscape.

route des menhirs (12. 550)

Though there’s a continuous trail through the region, about ten minutes south begins a really high concentration of megalithic monuments, mostly standing stones and dolmen (tombs) and tumuli (burial mounds), starting in the village of Kerzerho in the commune of Erdeven (An Ardeven) stretching all the way to the peninsula of Quiberon in the Bay of Biscay.

Over eleven hundred stones are placed in a narrow area stretching for two kilometers and bear witness to a number of arrangements and alignments which have not all been triangulated with a purpose, one stone circle cutting across the highway, some corresponding with the rising sun and seemingly part of a much larger structure.

These monuments were erected by Bronze Age pre-Celtic people and are thought to be a form of ancestor worship, new stones stood up for each successive generation, but there are no definitive theories or archaeological evidence as the benchmark of scholarship, Stonehenge, if fully removed by the transition of Mesolithic hunter-gatherers to settled farming culture.

synchronoptica

one year ago: Lukmanier pass (with synchronopticæ) plus arriving at Lake Maggiore

ten years ago: assorted links to revisit, the concept of the personal and unperishing soul plus the passing a chimeric lamb

eleven years ago: a visit to Koblenz 

twelve years ago: a mistaken anchor 

thirteen years ago: endonyms and exonyms in sport 

île de saint cado (12. 549)

Walking the opposite direction along the shore front Moulin des Oies from the campground, we first came to the dolmen known as Boccénic Vras (the geese-mill) on an outcropping, one of a few remaining prehistoric megalithic structures which were formerly as numerous as the preserved Carnac Stones not far from here but many of the granite monuments were used for construction material for lighthouses and churches, continuing through the habour and to the island of Welsh holy man Cardoc (Enez Kado), whose remote hermitage became a monastery during the high Middle Ages.

The rather remarkably engineered dike bridge connecting it to the mainland predates that period and was, according to legend, built by the devil in the course of one night. For his troubles, Satan claimed the first soul to cross—for which the saint volunteered but threw a black car onto the bridge at the last minute. About a hundred architectural marvels in France have the same demonic attribution.

Credited with the founding of many churches and abbeys throughout Breton, Cornwall and Scotland, Cado / Cardoc is fêted on 21 September (bay-dee-ya) and his Norman-era vita is considered one document that independently corroborates the historicity of the figure of King Arthur—prayed to for intervention for glandular issues and deafness. The church and supporting village was chiefly a fishing community and the monumental cavalry (see previously) dates from 1832 and the very photogenic Maison de Nichtarguér, an 1894 construction built for the caretaker of an oyster farm.